Riung 17 Islands Marine Park
Escape the Ordinary: Your Ultimate Guide to Riung 17 Islands Marine Park
Dreaming of turquoise waters, islands you can have (almost) all to yourself, and skies filled with… giant bats? Yep, you read that right. If the usual Southeast Asian tourist trails feel a bit too, well, trodden, then let me introduce you to your next obsession: the Riung 17 Islands Marine Park on the wild and wonderful island of Flores, Indonesia.
Forget the crowds of Komodo for a moment (we still love you, Komodo!), and picture this: lazy days spent island hopping Indonesia style, world-class snorkeling Flores offers without the flotilla of other boats, unique wildlife encounters that’ll blow your mind, and a sense of peace that’s getting harder and harder to find. This is off the beaten path Flores at its finest, a hidden gem that rewards the adventurous traveler. Ready to ditch the mundane and dive into something truly special? Let’s explore the magic of Riung 17 Islands Marine Park.
So, What’s the Real Story Behind Riung 17 Islands Marine Park?
First things first, let’s get the name straight. It’s a bit of a delightful Indonesian quirk.
Wait, How Many Islands Did You Say? (The Name Game)
Officially, it’s called ‘Taman Wisata Alam Laut 17 Pulau Riung’, translating to Seventeen Islands Marine Nature Park. Catchy, right? Except… if you actually count them, you’ll find there are more than 17! Depending on who you ask or what tide you arrive on, sources tally up over 20, sometimes 21, 23, or even 24 islands scattered across this stunning patch of ocean.
So, what gives? Is it bad math? Nope! The name ’17’ is a patriotic nod to Indonesia’s Independence Day, which falls on August 17th (17 Agustus 1945). Some locals might even charmingly tell you it represents the beauty of a 17-year-old girl. It’s a fantastic bit of national branding, grounding this natural wonder in cultural identity, even if it plays a little loose with the exact count. Think of it like Australia’s Twelve Apostles – there aren’t twelve, but the name sticks! This little discrepancy just adds to the unique charm of the Riung 17 Islands Marine Park.
Finding Neverland: Pinpointing Riung on the Map
This slice of paradise sits off the central north coast of Flores island in Indonesia, nestled within the Ngada Regency. The gateway to this aquatic playground is the sleepy fishing village of Riung itself. Its location is key to its magic – it’s a significant detour from the main tourist hubs like Labuan Bajo in the west or Ende and Maumere further east. Getting here requires a bit more effort, which naturally keeps the crowds thin and preserves the wonderfully laid-back, peaceful vibe that makes Riung 17 Islands Marine Park so special.
The Local Crew: Who (or What) Lives Here?
The Riung 17 Islands Marine Park isn’t just pretty islands; it’s teeming with life, both above and below the water.
Underwater, you’re entering a vibrant world. The park boasts a rich coral reef ecosystem – some sources mention up to 27 different coral species. Get ready for fantastic snorkeling Flores style! Expect to see schools of colourful reef fish darting about – keep an eye out for clownfish hiding in anemones, colourful parrotfish munching on coral, and maybe even the striking (and venomous!) lionfish. Sea turtles gracefully glide by, and the sandy bottoms are often dotted with brilliant blue starfish and sea urchins. If you’re lucky, you might spot dolphins or even whales in the deeper waters, tiny seahorses clinging to seagrass, slender trumpet fish, or the unique, flower-like sea roses.
Now, a little reality check on the coral. While much of the underwater scenery is beautiful, it’s not uniformly pristine. Past destructive practices like dynamite fishing have left their mark, and bleaching events like the 2002 El Nino also caused damage. However, the good news is that signs of recovery have been observed, with new coral growth appearing in some areas. Visibility for snorkeling is often quite good, frequently reaching 10-15 meters. This complex situation highlights the ongoing challenge of marine conservation, even within protected areas, but also shows nature’s resilience. The Riung 17 Islands Marine Park status is vital for its continued protection and recovery.
On the islands themselves, life flourishes too. You might spot Timor deer grazing, monkeys chattering in the trees, or shy hedgehogs rustling in the undergrowth. Birdwatchers can look out for eagles soaring overhead or herons and storks wading in the shallows. The mangrove forests fringing islands like Pulau Ontoloe are crucial habitats, acting as nurseries for marine life and roosting spots for birds and bats.
Keep your eyes peeled for the mysterious ‘Mbou’ (Varanus Riungensis). This local monitor lizard is a smaller, less fearsome relative of the famous Komodo dragon and is said to inhabit some islands here, like Torong Padang. However, sightings are rare – it’s an elusive creature, hardly ever encountered by tourists or even conservation management. Think of spotting one as a lucky bonus, not a guaranteed part of the Riung 17 Islands Marine Park experience.
But the undisputed star of the show? The massive colony of flying foxes Riung is famous for! These large fruit bats roost by the thousands on Pulau Ontoloe. Seeing them is an absolute must-do.
Your Epic Riung Boat Tour: Island Hopping Without the Crowds
The absolute best (and really, only) way to soak in the beauty of the Riung 17 Islands Marine Park is by chartering a local boat for the day. Forget packed tourist ferries; this is your private chariot to paradise.
The Standard Playbook: What a Day Looks Like
Most boat tour operators in Riung follow a similar, well-trodden (or should we say, well-sailed?) path, designed to hit all the highlights in a relaxed full-day trip. You’ll typically start from the Riung pier around 8 am, hopping aboard a traditional motorized wooden boat. The day usually wraps up around 4 or 5 pm.
The classic itinerary includes:
- A visit to Pulau Ontoloe to see the incredible flying foxes Riung is known for.
- Multiple stops for snorkeling Flores style at vibrant reefs near islands like Pulau Tiga, Pulau Rutong, or Pulau Tembang.
- A blissful stop on a deserted white-sand beach (often Pulau Tiga or Pulau Rutong) for a delicious BBQ lunch cooked right there on the shore.
- Sometimes, a chance to climb a small hill (like on Pulau Rutong) for breathtaking panoramic views over the Riung 17 Islands Marine Park archipelago.
While you might be able to customize slightly, this standard route is popular for a reason – it delivers an amazing day showcasing the best of the Riung 17 Islands Marine Park. And the best part? Unlike island hopping tours elsewhere, the boats here aren’t overcrowded, and the beaches are often gloriously empty.
Bat-ter Up! Witnessing the Flying Fox Phenomenon
Prepare for one of the most unique wildlife spectacles you’ll ever see! A highlight of any Riung 17 Islands Marine Park boat tour is the stop at Pulau Ontoloe. This is the largest island in the park, fringed with dense mangrove forests, and it plays host to a mind-bogglingly huge colony of flying foxes Riung is famous for – literally thousands of them.
During a standard daytime boat tour, you’ll cruise close to the mangroves and see these giant fruit bats (don’t worry, they only eat fruit!) hanging upside down in the trees, looking like strange, leathery fruit themselves. The sheer number is astonishing, and the sound of their chatter can be quite something. Some guides might even encourage a loud shout or clap to stir them into flight briefly.
However, the truly unforgettable, almost surreal experience is witnessing their mass exodus at sunset. As dusk settles, thousands upon thousands of these creatures take to the sky, flying off towards the mainland of Flores to forage for food. The sight of the sky filled with these giant bats against the colours of the setting sun is described by travelers as simply incredible and magical. Be aware that catching the sunset flight might require specific timing or arranging a slightly different tour, as standard day trips usually return before dusk. But seeing them roosting during the day is still a phenomenal sight and a core part of the Riung 17 Islands Marine Park adventure.
Snorkel ‘Til You Drop: Underwater Wonders
Get your mask and fins ready, because the snorkeling Flores offers in Riung 17 Islands Marine Park is fantastic. The water is generally crystal clear, making it easy to explore the underwater world.
Your boat tour will typically stop at several prime snorkeling spots. Popular locations include the reefs near Pulau Tiga (sometimes called Bukit Tiga), Pulau Rutong, Pulau Tembang, Pulau Laingjawa, Pulau Bakau, and Table Island.
Expect to be greeted by a kaleidoscope of marine life: colourful reef fish, vibrant blue starfish scattered on the seabed, maybe graceful sea turtles, tiny seahorses hiding amongst seagrass, and plenty of other fascinating critters. The snorkeling here is often described as nice and easy, perfect even for families with kids or less experienced snorkelers, with calm waters and accessible reefs close to sandy beaches.
While the fish life is abundant and colourful, remember the earlier note about the coral. You’ll find some lovely areas, but don’t expect wall-to-wall pristine, untouched reefs everywhere due to past damage. It’s still a beautiful and rewarding snorkeling experience, perhaps just different from the intense coral gardens found in peak dive locations like Komodo. Importantly, while the diving potential might be great, Riung 17 Islands Marine Park currently doesn’t have established dive operators, making it primarily a haven for snorkelers.
Castaway Lunch: BBQ on a Deserted Beach
Forget soggy sandwiches! One of the absolute highlights, mentioned by almost everyone who takes a Riung 17 Islands Marine Park boat tour, is the incredible lunch. Your boat crew turns into master chefs, setting up a BBQ right on the sands of a deserted, picture-perfect beach – often on Pulau Tiga or Rutong Island.
Imagine kicking back on soft white sand, the turquoise water lapping nearby, while the smell of grilling seafood fills the air. The menu typically features incredibly fresh fish (sometimes caught that morning or bought directly from local fishermen passing by), perhaps some squid, served with rice, simple vegetables, and fresh fruit. It’s often described as delicious and a truly memorable part of the day – a proper Robinson Crusoe feast, enjoyed in blissful solitude. This isn’t just lunch; it’s an experience that perfectly captures the magic of the Riung 17 Islands Marine Park.
More Island Fun: Beaches and Views
Beyond the bats and the BBQ, your boat tour offers plenty of time to simply enjoy the stunning island scenery. You’ll get to lounge on pristine, quiet white-sand beaches, often fringed by palm trees, on islands like Pulau Rutong and Pulau Tiga. Swim in the calm, clear turquoise waters, soak up the sun, or hunt for seashells (one lucky family even found a perfect Nautilus shell!).
For those who fancy stretching their legs, there’s often an opportunity to climb a small hill, particularly on Pulau Rutong. The short climb rewards you with absolutely fantastic panoramic views across the entire Riung 17 Islands Marine Park archipelago – a sea of blues dotted with green islands. Don’t forget your camera for this stop!
Getting Your Boots (or Flip-Flops) on the Ground: The Riung Quest
Alright, adventurer, let’s talk logistics. Getting to the Riung 17 Islands Marine Park is part of the experience – it requires a bit more planning and patience than hopping over to Bali, but that’s precisely what keeps it special.
The Journey IS the Destination (Prepare for Bumps!)
First, you need to get to the magnificent island of Flores. The main entry points with airports are Labuan Bajo (LBJ) in the west (closest to Komodo), Ende (ENE) and Maumere (MOF) in the central/east (closer to Kelimutu), and a smaller airport in Bajawa (BJW), which is geographically nearest to Riung but has fewer flight connections. You can fly into these airports from Bali (Denpasar – DPS) and other major Indonesian hubs like Jakarta or Kupang.
Once you’re on Flores, the adventure continues overland to reach Riung village. Here’s the lowdown on the main routes:
- From Bajawa: This is the closest major town. The drive takes anywhere from 2 to 4 hours, heavily depending on the road conditions and your mode of transport. Historically, the direct road (around 73km) was notoriously bad – bumpy, potholed, and slow. Some reports suggest improvements, but it’s wise to expect a challenging ride in parts. Taking the longer route back via Mbay (around 116km) might offer a slightly better (though longer) road surface.
- Public Bus: The cheapest option (around 40,000 – 70,000 IDR), but expect a slow, bumpy journey of 4-5 hours, complete with potential chickens and frequent stops.
- Private Car/Driver: Much faster (around 2 hours) and more comfortable, costing roughly 500,000 IDR.
- From Ende or Moni (Kelimutu area): This journey takes around 3-4 hours by car.
- Public Bus: This requires a two-stage trip. First, get from Moni to Ende (1.5-3 hours, 20,000-60,000 IDR). Then, catch the daily bus from Ende West Bus Station to Riung, which usually leaves around 2 pm (costing 50,000-75,000 IDR and taking about 4 hours). Be aware of potential scams or misinformation from touts at the Ende bus station telling you the bus isn’t running.
- Private Car/Driver: A simpler, direct option, avoiding the bus station shuffle.
- From Labuan Bajo: This is a long overland haul, typically taking 8-10 hours or more. It’s strongly recommended to break up this journey with overnight stops in places like Ruteng and Bajawa along the Trans-Flores Highway. Alternatively, you could fly from Labuan Bajo (LBJ) to Bajawa (BJW) – a short 40-minute flight – and then take the 2-hour drive from Bajawa to Riung. This is faster but adds complexity and cost.
Think of the travel itself as part of your off the beaten path Flores adventure. The roads might be winding and bumpy, the buses crowded and slow, but you’ll be rewarded with stunning landscapes, glimpses into local village life, and a real sense of journeying somewhere unique. The effort required to reach the Riung 17 Islands Marine Park is precisely what filters out the masses, preserving its tranquil, untouched feel. The sometimes challenging infrastructure is a reflection of Flores being less developed for mass tourism than places like Bali, offering a more authentic, raw travel experience.
Here’s a quick cheat sheet for getting to Riung:
Timing is Everything: When to Visit Riung 17 Islands Marine Park
Picking the right time to visit can make a difference to your Riung 17 Islands Marine Park experience. Generally, the best time aligns with the dry season in Flores, which runs roughly from April through to October or November.
- Dry Season (April – October/November): This period offers the most reliable weather. Expect sunny skies, calmer seas perfect for the boat tour and snorkeling Flores conditions, and minimal rain. This is the most popular time, especially July and August, though ‘popular’ in Riung is still delightfully quiet compared to other Indonesian hotspots.
- Shoulder Seasons (April-June & September-November): These months can be fantastic. You often get the good weather of the dry season but potentially with even fewer visitors. April to June is particularly lovely as the landscapes are still lush and green from the recent rains. September to November offer great trekking weather as things cool slightly.
- Rainy Season (December – March): This time brings the greenest, most vibrant landscapes. However, it comes with risks. Expect frequent, sometimes heavy, downpours (often in the afternoon). Seas can be rougher, potentially leading to cancelled boat tour trips. Overland travel can be hampered by slippery roads or even landslides, making those already challenging routes even trickier.
The trade-off is clear: visit during the dry season for maximum reliability and ideal conditions for water activities. Choose the rainy season if you prioritize lush scenery and don’t mind the potential for disruption. The Riung 17 Islands Marine Park offers beauty year-round, just a different flavour depending on the season.
Riung Real Talk: Need-to-Knows Before You Go
Okay, you’re hyped, you know how to get there, and when to go. Now for the essential practical stuff to make your trip to the Riung 17 Islands Marine Park smooth sailing.
Crash Pads: Finding Your Hut in Riung
Let’s be clear: Riung isn’t Labuan Bajo or Bali when it comes to accommodation. Options are limited and decidedly basic, but clean and comfortable by local standards. Think charmingly simple guesthouses, family-run homestays, and rustic bungalows, often nestled under palm trees. Forget infinity pools and luxury resorts; this is about authentic, off the beaten path Flores living.
Facilities reflect this. Cold water showers are the norm; you might find air conditioning or hot water, but often at an extra cost or only in slightly pricier options. WiFi is a rarity – if available at all, expect it to be slow and patchy. Electricity can also be intermittent, often relying on town generators that might only run from evening till morning. Remember to charge your devices when you can!
Some popular names that pop up include Riung Guesthouse, Mentos Bungalows (run by the helpful Mentos), Nirvana Bungalows (run by Tam, a “pretty cool Rasta guy”), Pondok SVD (run by missionaries), Zon Pelo (basic but right on the pier), Riung Lalong Terong Guest House, Riung Tiga Empat Tujuh Guesthouse, Welcome To Riung Homestay, Del Mar Home Stay and Cafe, and Loca Lobo Lodges. Prices are generally very reasonable, often ranging from around 150,000 to 350,000 Indonesian Rupiah (roughly £8-£17 or $10-$22 USD) per night for a basic room, usually including a simple breakfast.
You can find some of these places on booking platforms like Booking.com or Agoda, which can be useful, especially in peak season. However, others operate more traditionally, requiring you to show up, book through local contacts, or find them by walking around the pier area. While booking ahead offers peace of mind, finding a room upon arrival is often possible, especially outside July/August. The basic nature of the lodging is part of the charm and adventure of visiting Riung – embrace the simplicity!
Chow Time: Fueling Your Adventures
Food options in Riung village are straightforward but satisfying. You’ll find a handful of small, local restaurants known as ‘warungs’. Don’t expect extensive menus, but do expect fresh ingredients and tasty local flavours.
The absolute star of the culinary scene here is fresh seafood, particularly grilled fish. Given Riung is a fishing village, you can often get incredibly fresh catches grilled to perfection. Some travelers rave about having the best seafood of their Flores trip right here. Beyond seafood, you’ll find standard Indonesian fare like noodle dishes (mie goreng) or rice dishes (nasi goreng).
A few specific eateries get mentioned: Cafe Rico Rico, located conveniently next to the pier, is known not just for food (and cold Bintangs after your boat tour!) but also for helping arrange trips. Murah Mariah (behind the market) is noted for its spicy fish soup and squid satay. Cafe Del Mar is praised for delicious fresh fish, and Rutong Cafe N Resto (possibly unnamed when some visited) gets high marks for its massive, affordable grilled fish feasts.
There’s also a local market where you can buy basic supplies, snacks, and fresh fruit. You might even consider buying some fruit at the market to supplement your boat trip lunch.
The Nitty-Gritty: Fees, Boats, and Cold Hard Cash
Listen up, this part is crucial for a hassle-free Riung 17 Islands Marine Park visit!
- Park Entrance Fee: There’s an official entrance fee for the Riung 17 Islands Marine Park. The most commonly cited figure is 100,000 Indonesian Rupiah per person. However, one source claims there are no counters and no need to pay a ticket, while others mention the fee being included (or supposedly included) in their boat tour price.
- The Key Takeaway: Assume the 100,000 IDR fee per person is required and clarify explicitly with your boat operator beforehand whether it’s included in their price or if you need to pay it separately. Don’t get caught out!
- Boat Tour Cost: As mentioned, this is your main activity cost. Prices are negotiable, especially if you book directly at the pier rather than through your guesthouse.
- Expect to pay around 500,000 – 800,000 IDR for the whole boat (which can usually take up to 6 people) for the day.
- If you’re sharing or joining a trip, the per-person cost might be around 300,000 – 350,000 IDR, depending on how many people are on board.
- This price typically includes the boat and captain for the full day, the delicious BBQ lunch, and often the use of snorkeling gear (mask, snorkel, fins). Again, double-check about the park fee inclusion!
- CASH IS KING: This cannot be stressed enough. Riung is not a place for credit cards or digital payments. You absolutely need to bring enough Indonesian Rupiah in cash to cover everything: your accommodation, all your meals, the boat tour, the park entrance fee, any snacks or drinks, potential transport out of Riung, and a buffer for unexpected things.
- Why is this so critical? There is reportedly only one ATM in Riung village (Bank BRI, near the market/pier). ATMs in remote Indonesian locations can be unreliable – they might be out of cash, broken, or might not accept foreign cards. Do NOT rely on this ATM being functional. Draw sufficient cash in a larger town like Bajawa, Ende, or Labuan Bajo before you head to Riung. Running out of cash here could genuinely disrupt your plans.
Pack Your Bags: What to Bring for Your Riung Adventure
Packing smart will make your Riung 17 Islands Marine Park trip much more comfortable. Think sun, sea, sand, and simplicity.
- Sun Protection Army: The Indonesian sun is fierce, especially out on the water. Pack high SPF sunscreen (consider reef-safe options to protect the coral), a wide-brimmed hat that won’t fly off easily on the boat, and good quality sunglasses. A light long-sleeved shirt or rash guard is also great for extra sun protection while snorkeling or on the boat.
- Swimwear: Essential! Bring at least two swimsuits so one can dry while you wear the other.
- Lightweight Clothing: Pack light, breathable clothes suitable for tropical heat – cotton or quick-dry fabrics are ideal. Think shorts, t-shirts, tank tops, maybe a light sundress or two. You might want a pair of light long pants and a top with sleeves for evenings (mosquito protection) or visiting villages respectfully. A sarong is incredibly versatile – beach towel, cover-up, skirt, sunshade.
- Footwear: Flip-flops or sandals are perfect for the village and beaches. Water shoes can be useful for walking on reefs or rocky shores. Proper hiking shoes are probably overkill unless you plan extensive trekking outside the boat tour, but sturdy sandals or trainers might be good for the viewpoint climb.
- Snorkel Gear (Optional): While gear is usually included in the boat tour price, if you have your own mask and snorkel that fits perfectly, you might prefer to bring it for comfort and hygiene. Fins are bulky, so probably best to use the ones provided unless you’re very particular.
- Camera Gear: Definitely bring a camera! A waterproof camera or GoPro is fantastic for capturing the underwater magic during your snorkeling Flores adventure. Remember extra batteries and memory cards. A power bank is essential for keeping devices charged, given potentially limited electricity.
- Dry Bag: Highly recommended for the boat tour to protect your phone, camera, and other valuables from splashes or unexpected rain.
- Cash: We mentioned it before, but it bears repeating – bring enough Indonesian Rupiah!.
- Bug Spray: Especially for evenings, mosquito repellent is a good idea.
- Basic First Aid & Meds: Include essentials like pain relievers, antiseptic wipes, band-aids, motion sickness tablets if needed, and any personal prescriptions. Imodium and rehydration salts can be lifesavers if you encounter stomach issues.
- Reusable Water Bottle: Stay hydrated and reduce plastic waste. Your guesthouse or boat might offer refills.
- Towel: A quick-dry travel towel is handy for after swimming/snorkeling.
- Local SIM Card: If you need connectivity, note that only the Telkomsel network is reported to work well in Riung.
Is the Riung Quest Worth It? Absolutely!
Look, getting to the Riung 17 Islands Marine Park takes a bit more grit than your average beach holiday. The roads can be rough, the accommodation simple, and you definitely need to plan ahead with cash. But that’s precisely the point.
This isn’t a pre-packaged, sanitized tourist trap. It’s an authentic slice of Flores, a place where you can genuinely escape the crowds, witness incredible natural spectacles like the flying foxes Riung offers, snorkel over vibrant reefs often all by yourself, and enjoy the simple pleasure of a fresh fish BBQ on a deserted beach.
If you’re the kind of traveler who seeks out off the beaten path Flores adventures, values unique experiences over luxury comforts, and wants to see a side of Indonesia travel that feels genuinely special and untouched, then the journey to Riung 17 Islands Marine Park is absolutely worth the effort. It’s a place that rewards patience with paradise, a memory that will stick with you long after the tan fades. So, pack your adventurous spirit (and plenty of cash!), and get ready to discover one of Flores’ best-kept secrets.
